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Yaigogé-Apaporis: an unexpected paradise in the Colombian jungle

Friday, August 15, 2014

First I dream Colombians Caño Cristales, then with the Randal of Jirijirimo after Cano Alto with Randal Mina and Cerros de Mavecure. And keep on dreaming because the beauties of this country are immeasurable.

The Randal of Jirijirimo, the main attraction of the National Park of Yaigogé-Apaporis-not the only one was chosen in the United States for a few pictures of me as the most beautiful scenery on the planet. What captivates Apaporis Cascade River is its totally wild environment, no hotels, no roads, no infrastructure of any kind. Wild is the closest thing to free, said the Plains Indians.
Niños cabiyaris en el río Apaporis.

The last time we got to La Victoria, a town named Pacoa before. The DC3, workhorse of World War II, fell on the track to which the Indians had cut the grass. We give gifts of salt, soaps and hooks we had brought and that they so desperately need.

Immediately, given the lateness of the evening, rode boats and sailed downstream. The sunset was gorgeous, colored heaven and burned forest and its reflections river with violent brushstrokes.

We should ride in a yellow tents playones another time where I had found an anaconda of about six meters long. Jirijirimo bed means precisely guided. We woke up early and by mid morning the village of indigenous cabiyaris, my friends from many years ago.

Just when I first came to Jirijirimo in l978, when hardly anyone knew of the existence of this Cascada- cabiyaris decided to settle the next flood.
Las trenzas vegetales verdes del RaudalThe greens of the stream braids

The following year I convinced them to build the town a mile above and they did. We set up the tents indoors within their longhouses. In my group were two excellent doctors. Elio Mendoza, neural therapy expert He saved the captain's son Gustavo, who was on death and Carlos Uribe responded magnificently trauma indigenous issues, which were not few.

The Apaporis, proud and solemn, bending and forming leaves numerous chutes one and two meters to jump on a monumental staircase of more than 70 meters high. The rainbow is loud and constant companion of monumental show. Spellbound for hours spent on both sides of the stream watching the water slips through a green vegetable and long braids how to hair. On the right bank of the river looking forward settling of the stream to admire how powerful tornado melts in foam and pieces of rainbow.
El verano descubre las playas del Apaporis.Summer discovers Apaporis beaches.

Pura vida

Cabiyaris One day we went to visit her and planted coca attended mambe preparation, which is obtained by macerating the leaves into a powder and mix with lime they get yarumo burning leaves. Mambe chew snuff and accompanying it with the desired effect is obtained. Les ravenous hunger and sleep. We chew coca leaves and reach to feel how we dozed a little tongue.

We could swim quietly beside the rapids in a haven nestled in the rocks. Coming out of the stream, named itself though is a waterfall, the river narrows and runs several miles between walls about 25 feet high. The channel width does not exceed 30 meters in this canyon.

Then, the river reaches Apaporis called Tunnel, which really is not so, but it does. It is open at the top. The river, which before going over the falls is a mile wide, is reduced to about six meters. The depth in the tunnel gap of about 50 meters in length, is several tens of meters.
En algunos tramos, el río Apaporis se pinta de colores.In some sections, the Apaporis painted colors.

The water looks calm, but suddenly arise Fund dangerous whirlpools that indigenous know skillfully dodge. To get to the tunnel we have traveled a path through the jungle that looks more like the entrance to the kingdom of happiness by silence, vines, wild flowers, songs of birds, the solemnity. We have gone downstream.

And groups of three or four in a canoe oar carried by indigenous let plunging us into the Solemnity Tunnel. Meanwhile waiting bathe in a quiet sump located two hundred meters down the tunnel. On the way back, walking through the woods, we come assimilating and reliving one of the biggest thrills we have lived: navigating the legendary Tunnel Apaporis.

This heart of the Colombian Amazon is rich in all animal and plant species in the forest. In mammals, from the powerful to the beautiful jaguar ocelot. In reptiles, from the huge anaconda or water led to small lizards. In birds, from the queen of the air: the harpy eagle, to many hundreds of birds in a country like ours, which ranks first in the world in number of species of birds.

Scientists say there are still many fish species in these forests without studying insects and they say there are millions-millions still unknown to science.

Yaigogé-Apaporis is now the emblem of the natural biodiversity National Park in which Colombia is world champion.

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